How can a brand protect its image, and at the same time place production in countries like Bangladesh, India, or China?

Many people would say “it’s impossible to lower risks to zero” and they would be right. But how to reduce risks to a level close to zero?

I found a good set of recommendations in Garment factory collapse could leave reputations in tatters; seven steps to protect brand names (h/t to Collective Responsibility). Unfortunately, it does cost money.

Here are seven steps that brand names and large retailers should try to follow:

1. If the workplace health, safety and environmental regulatory framework of your sourcing market is less stringent than in your home country, find suppliers that are prepared to accept your home country’s requirements as their standard;
2. That means you need to undertake thorough due diligence to identify and qualify your partners in your supply chain;
3. Be prepared to pay a premium to ensure your partners can meet the standards demanded by you and your customers back home (it may make producing overseas more expensive but your reputation will remain intact);
4. Publicise what you are doing to improve working and environmental conditions in the market you are sourcing from;
5. Put in place a strong corporate social responsibility program in the country you are sourcing product from to demonstrate your commitment to the local market and to create that shield for your brand in case something goes wrong (remember that Murphy’s Law is always in play);
6. Have a crisis plan, systems and processes in place to deal with a crisis in case it happens (that thing about Murphy’s Law again);
7. Constantly test and improve your crisis plan.

I think “Put in place a strong corporate social responsibility program” is a little vague. It can be inadequate, as I wrote recently:

After a social compliance audit, a manufacturer gets a rating – typically, all the criteria of the SA 8000 standard and local laws are weighted about the same. But I think it should be different:

  • Some criteria should be critical, and should be a cause for failure of the audit — for example, a worker cutting fabric without protective gloves, instances of child labor, insufficient safety exits in case of a fire…
  • Some others should be considered as “nice to have” — for example, respect of local regulations regarding working hours (what is the problem, really, if the workers can easily quit a factory and join another one?)

But I don’t see any to add to the list… how about you?

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Last week, I was happy to moderate a seminar organized in Shenzhen by the European Chamber. The three speakers, who were kind enough to come and expose their supplier development programs, represented very diverse organizations:

  • A retailer (Kingfisher, with more than 1,000 stores, mostly in Europe);
  • An industrial organization (Altra Industrial Motion);
  • A high-tech company in the security field (Oberthur).

After looking at my notes, I noticed that a supplier development program follows logical steps:

Supplier development building blocks

I am going to describe each of these building blocks.

1. Selecting suppliers that can improve over time

Oberthur pays a lot of attention to the type of suppliers they work with. Here are two of their supplier selection criteria:

  • Some manufacturers have a “culture” that pushes them to search for improvements, naturally and without the need for pressure coming from key buyers.
  • Some suppliers have an interest in developing new products. Widening their product range is part of their strategy, so they are ready to invest time and money in a difficult development process (see part 2 below).

2. From quotation to the first production batch

The manufacturer needs to understand the buyer’s expectations, and the development of customized products can take a long time.

Is is how Altra Industrial Motion develops their new suppliers:

  • Explanation of their requirements;
  • Explanation of the proposed production process (they are familiar with production of the components they purchase);
  • Analysis of the factory’s inspection methods, and corrections if necessary — they estimate that the cause of 50% of their quality problems is a lack of knowledge of proper inspection methods at the factory level;
  • Feedback on pre-production samples until they are right.

3. Ensure a minimum quality level

If a supplier cannot reliably deliver products that satisfy the buyer’s quality standard, the priority is to push them to get their quality under control… or to stop the relationship.

But how to push a supplier to improve its quality, without spending a huge amount of work?

  • By auditing their quality system, pointing deficiencies to their attention, and helping them implement corrective actions.
  • By studying the most frequent types of defects, running a root cause analysis, and pushing for implementation of countermeasures.

This is at the heart of Kingfisher’s supplier development program. They want more suppliers to “self-inspect”. The objective is to avoid the cost of third-party inspections.

So they focus on their high-volume suppliers with low quality performance (see below chart). Their approach is: “we are going to pay for a program that will make you more competitive in the long term”. If the supplier’s boss is interested, they go ahead.

3 categories of suppliers (inspired by Kingfisher presentation)

4. Pick the low-hanging fruits

Most Chinese suppliers have a lot of room for improvement. But they are not always aware of this situation.

The buyer can help the supplier pick the low-hanging fruits by apply a gentle mix of pulling and pushing.

For example, Oberthur has pressure to decrease prices on certain products every year. So they ask the supplier for a roadmap to reduce costs in the coming years (with details on how he intends to achieve these targets).

Another example: Altra Industrial Motion helps decrease the scrap rate once a production is under way (their suppliers do a lot of metal machining, so rejects and scrap are always a problem). This way, less material is consumed. The supplier’s cost is lower. And price increases are less justified.

Altra’s representative said something interesting: “our best suppliers are the ones we visited the most over the last 7 years”.

5. Re-organize production

When a supplier is willing to work on improving his operations, and doesn’t work for direct competitors, it makes sense to help him re-organize production for better results.

This step is comprized on several sub-steps that cannot be skipped:

  1. The buyer should select a priority: quality, cost, faster production cycle and smaller batches, capacity…
  2. Select a few KPIs, and track their improvement over the following sub-steps;
  3. Pick a target, envision the future state that needs to be achieved to meet this target, and then make changes in processes and in the supporting organization to reach that future state;
  4. Start over again with a new target, after the team got a sense of victory and has energy to take on another challenge.

This fifth step is all about lean production. It offers impressive results when done the right way. But it is not the first step in a supplier development program.

Do you agree?

Names and titles of the three speakers:

  • Eva Zhang, Field Operations Manager, Kingfisher Sourcing Organisation.
  • Sebastien Binot, ECB Asia Sourcing Manager, Altra Industrial Motion (Shenzhen-China) Co. Ltd.
  • Daisy Liu, Asia Head of Purchasing, Oberthur Technologies.

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